Banja Luka: A Short Guide

A lot of you may not have heard of Banja Luka or even know where it is..well..Banja Luka is located in northern Bosnia and Herzegovina, it is the country’s second-largest city. With a population of around 185,000, it has over 1,000 cafés and restaurants, surrounded by scenic views along the banks of the River Vrbas.

I decided to spend 2 days to explore the city and see what it has to offer!

Looking out of the plane window during our final approach into Banja Luka, it felt like we were landing in the middle of a field—and in a way, you kind of are…this is the airport runway:

The landscape was mostly open, with a few houses scattered among large patches of land. As we touched down at Banja Luka’s small airport, ours was the only commercial plane there. There was no jet bridge but there were two tractors, one pulling a generator and the other presumably heading to retrieve luggage. We walked straight off the plane into a small arrival hall. Passports were stamped, bags went through a quick security screening, and within minutes, we were outside in the mild late-afternoon sun.

Transport options are limited. If you don’t have someone picking you up, your choices are either a taxi, hiring a car or the airport bus.

The bus costs €5 per person one way and takes about 30 minutes to reach the city center.

Read my post on how to get to and from Banja Luka Airport here: How to Get to and From Banja Luka Airport

The bus dropped us off in the middle of the city, which was convenient—unless you forgot to download a map…

By the time we arrived into the city, it was getting dark. Since Bosnia isn’t in the EU, mobile data costs were high with my provider. I had no choice but to switch on data briefly, check directions, and turn it off again. Fortunately, our host had sent detailed instructions with pictures, which helped me find my accommodation. A 20-minute gentle uphill walk later, I had arrived.

Banja Luka is exactly what I like about exploring somewhere. It sees very little tourists which means you experience the city exactly how it is – no tourist traps or overcrowded attractions.

The city feels a little rough around the edges, yet there’s a clear sense of transition. New developments are springing up all over, and it will be interesting to see how Banja Luka evolves in the next few years once these projects are completed.

• Fortress Kastel

Located on the bank of the River Vrbas, this historic fortress is one of Banja Luka’s main attractions. Entrance is free and you can walk around at your leisure. English information boards are dotted throughout the site. Stepping through the fortress’ archway, you immediately feel a sense of calm. You can climb up the ancient walls, find a peaceful spot, and watch the world go by with river views.

• Cathedral of Christ the Saviour

You can’t miss this impressive cathedral, it dominates the city’s main high street! The building looks spectacular, especially at night when it’s all lit up.

• Ferhadija Mosque

Another impressive piece of architecture, Ferhadija Mosque is located just a short walk from the main high street and the river. It’s a beautiful and peaceful spot to visit.

• Vrbas River

Flowing through the heart of the city, the Vrbas River is stunning, with its crystal-clear blue-green waters shimmering in the afternoon sun. Take a stroll along the riverbank, where you’ll spot majestic weeping willows gracefully lining the edges. Fun fact: The river is named after these willows!

• Hiking

Banja Luka is surrounded by hills and scenic landscapes, making it an ideal spot for hiking. Unfortunately, my short visit only allowed for a quick walk up a nearby hill, but if hiking is your thing, there seem to be plenty of fantastic trails offering panoramic views over the city.

• Shopping

Not high on my agenda but there are a variety of shops. I did come across Tržnica which is a huge open market full of fresh food as well as shoes and clothes. Outside the city there is a modern shopping centre/mall called Delta Planet with all the usual suspects inside.

Absolutely.

The first night after settling into my accommodation. I headed out to explore and grab some food. It was a 20-minute walk to the main high street, and despite the darkness, I felt completely safe. The streets were lively with people, families with children, dog walkers and the atmosphere was welcoming. The entire visit I felt safe no matter night or day.

Throughout my stay, locals were incredibly friendly and helpful, even though many didn’t speak English and I didn’t speak Bosnian.

I stayed at the wonderful ‘Apartman Vista Banja Luka’ – the views alone were worth the price alone. The apartment was comfortable and cozy with a lovely set up inside. There is a good sized balcony which boasts sprawling views out towards the hills in the distance. At every hour of the day I could find myself staring out admiring the view.

• Bosnia is a country where ‘cash is king’. The Euro is widely accepted even-though the official currency is the Bosnia-Herzegovina Convertible Marka (BAM). Bring everything you need in cash as credit cards are not widely accepted. I found card was accepted in bigger stores such as supermarkets but to be on the safe side bring enough cash for your stay.

• If your mobile phone provider does not cover you while you’re in Bosnia-Herzegovina then make sure to pre download or print off any information you need prior to your visit. I found this out the hard way.

• Learn a few key words or phrases, I feel this is important wherever you visit. It can help massively in certain situations such as asking for an item in a shop or restaurant. Also just even saying hello, please and thank you in any language is a polite thing to do.

• If you don’t eat meat you may struggle at restaurants. There were not a lot of meat free alternatives I could find. Many restaurants don’t have menus on the outside so to be on the safe side search up the menu beforehand or visit a supermarket to pick up supplies if you have any dietary requirements.

Banja Luka is a city full of authenticity and untouched local culture. If you’re looking for a destination that hasn’t been overrun by tourism, where you can explore at your own pace then Banja Luka is a great place to do so. I thoroughly enjoyed my stay in Banja Luka even for just a short few days.